For a moment I saw nothing but the shapes of cattle flashing by on the sides while poor

For a moment I saw nothing but the shapes of cattle flashing by on the sides, while poor Poderosa gathered speed down the steep hill. By an absolute miracle, all we touched was the leg of the last cow. In the distance there was a river which seemed to be beckoning us with terrifying certainty. I steered the bike on to the side of the road and it flew up the two-metre bank, ending up lodged between two rocks, but we were unhurt.Still reaping the benefit of the letter of recommendation from the press [Che, a medical student, and Alberto, a doctor some years older than Che, had been featured as "leprology experts" in a local newspaper, and had become neighbourhood stars], we were put up by some Germans who treated us very well.

When we were running towards the village, pursued by a swarm of enraged dancers, Alberto lamented all the wine her husband might have bought us.THE END OF THE ROAD FOR LA PODEROSA IILos Angeles, 27 FebruaryWE GOT up early to flee what was no longer a very hospitable spot for us - though not before accepting another invitation to lunch. Alberto had a premonition and didn't want to drive, so I took the controls. We did quite a few kilometres before stopping to fix the gearbox. Not much further on, we went round a tight bend at quite a speed, the screw came off the back brake, a cow's head appeared round the bend, then lots more, and I clutched the hand brake which, soldered in an elementary fashion, broke too. She tried to kick me and as I was pulling her she lost her balance and went crashing to the floor.

It was a very cosy evening and we kept filling our bellies and minds with wine. One of the mechanics from the garage, a particularly nice guy, asked me to dance with his wife because he'd been mixing his drinks and was the worse for wear. His wife was pretty randy and obviously in the mood, and I, full of Chilean wine, took her by the hand to lead her outside. She followed me docilely, but then realised her husband was watching and changed her mind. I was in no state to listen to reason and we had bit of a barney in the middle of the dance floor, resulting in me pulling her towards one of the doors with everybody watching. Chilean wine is very good and I was downing it at an amazing rate, so by the time we went on to the village dance I felt ready for anything.