I perspire copiously I go red in the face I become my own air-conditioning and a lovely feeling

I perspire copiously, I go red in the face, I become my own air-conditioning, and a lovely feeling it is, too. I served my apprenticeship with a long-ago Mexican president while he was on the campaign trail: visiting the dutiful peasants who turned out, beginning long before dawn, to greet the candidate of the wonderfully aptly named Institutional Revolutionary Party.The Mexican campaign trail at that hour is a laborious affair. Having lived in hot countries (bless you, oh Lord, say I, as spring sends its icy blasts through Boston) for a good part of my life, I am well used to hot, spicy foods. Keep the eggs as smooth as possible; they are ready when you do not quite think they are. Eggs carry on cooking in their own heat, so while you butter the hot muffins, the eggs should be perfectly cooked. Stir in the chives, pile the scrambled eggs neatly, in mounds, on to the muffins and top each with as much caviare as you dare; a tablespoon each?. For the past several weeks,since a foul rheum with accompanying catarrh made my life miserable (you try cooking for 12 guests with no ability whatever to smell or taste what you are doing), I have been spicing up nearly everything I eat Nothing has seemed quite hot enough, pepperwise.

Meanwhile, divide the spinach between 4 shallow, individual dishes (those ones with "ears" are perfect), leaving a hollow in the middle for the eggs. Put an egg in each dish, pour over some of the sauce and bake in the oven for 4-5 minutes. Finish off under a hot grill so the sauce blisters somewhat, and then sprinkle each serving with parmesan. Serve straight away.Scrambled eggs with caviare and chives on buttered muffinsServes 4Ingredients: 40g (11/2oz)butter6-8tbs double cream6 large, fresh eggslittle salt and much pepper1/2 bunch chives, snipped2 muffins, split horizontally, toasted and butteredcaviarePreparation: Melt the butter in a non-stick pan Beat the cream and eggs lightly together with the seasoning.

Add to the pan and cook gently over a low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or spatula. Keep warm.Poach the eggs in water, with a little vinegar added Leave them a little undercooked. Drain in a colander, pressing gently to extract excess moisture. Put in the spinach, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and stir-fry until limp and just cooked. Now melt the 40g (11/2oz) butter in a heavy-based saucepan, and stir in the flour to make a roux Strain the milk into the roux and whisk thoroughly Bring to a simmer over a low heat for a good 10 minutes.